Africa

Day Three: Thursday

Big Day on the Mara

We wake up before the sun but the power is on so it must be after five. Our water however is cold, and does not warm up before we go to breakfast. They have forgotten to light the fire! From inside our tent we can hear the tinkle tinkle of cowbells as the Maasai take the cattle from their nighttime enclosure down the escarpment to the plains. I hear a ruckus outside and we step onto the deck in time to catch a family … no, must be several families … of baboons passing not five feet from us. They pay us no mind, and carry on. Further below are a couple of giraffes grazing on the tall acacia trees and a male Thomson gazelle watching a small band of bachelor gazelles lingering too close to his harem. As we walk to the lodge, a group of zebras, not the least bit afraid of us, saunters off among the smaller acacia trees.

Breakfast is waiting: eggs (any style), pancakes, toast, and some sort of bacon – perhaps beef – as there is little pork available in this part of Africa in respect of the Muslim population. After we meet George who is wiping the last smears of yesterday’s mud from the van. It has rained again in the night but the thunderclouds are rolling off the horizon with the promise of a great day. Even though we are here at the end of rainy season, it is still very wet. This makes for very lush vegetation and good animal viewing (except for the big cats which are harder to see in the tall grass) but VERY muddy roads. I am not looking forward to the drive down to the plains and how we finally arrive at the park gate indeed seems a miracle.

Today is to be a full day safari. When we ask George if we will see a lion or a rhino or an elephant, he just smiles and says, “We are looking.” I can tell he does not want to get our hopes up but his job is to make us happy. No sooner are we through the park gates when we spy some elephants – two large bulls together and one lone bull further on. George barely gets the van in gear before one of us hangs out the pop-top and points, “Look … eleven o’clock …three topis.” Impalas, warthogs, Thomson gazelles, Grants gazelles, waterbucks, zebras, giraffes, and a small herd of eland, the largest of the antelopes – there are animals everywhere.  I pinch myself to be sure I am not in some sort of dreamscape.

The birds are something else. Such colour: The superb starling with its iridescent blue back and rust belly; the gorgeous lilac-breasted roller … a pallet of violet, turquoise, green, tawny brown and vivid blue. Such feathery display: the crested crane with its tiara of golden feathery spikes and deep red throat; the large secretary bird with its quill like crest and white shirt and black pants. Such oddballs: the red-wattled prehistoric looking ground Hornbill; the large Kori bustard, which prefer not to fly. We also see a variety of long legged waders, ducks, hawks, vultures, storks, egrets, herons and a host of smaller birds of varying beauty.

We stop at the hippo pool and sure enough there are several huge bodies submerged in the muddy Mara River. George points out that this is not only one of the main places the hippos hang out (because they can’t sweat, they have to stay in the water during the heat of the day) but also one of the spots were the wildebeests and zebras cross the river during the migration. This also means that crocodiles are close by and sure enough we see one not far from the hippos. This time of year the crocs are not as well fed as they are when the animals are crossing – then it is a veritable feast – and have to rely on animals that get too close to the edge to drink, or the odd baby hippo.

Further along the river we are in luck to see a rare black rhino. This rhino is on the critically endangered list primarily due to illegal poaching for their horns. George tells us there are only about twenty left in the Masai Mara region. But we can’t stay long to watch this giant as George gets a call from a fellow guide. Lions!

It is getting close to lunch (and certainly a bathroom break – getting out of the vehicle is strictly not allowed) but George “speeds” along even passing a large herd of elephants foraging close to the road. “We will come back,” he says. “The lions might not wait!”

Finally after being shook up like a cocktail, we arrive at another spot along the river. There are several other jeeps here (it is amazing how few other vehicles we have come across so far) and people are hanging out the pop-tops looking through binoculars and cameras. George vies for a good spot and we follow everyone’s gaze. About 100 feet away is a clump of low leafy acacias and what looks like some large rocks in the tall grass. Ten feet from the large rocks are more rocks but … then … two fuzzy ears appear … four ears … and then, two very inquisitive feline faces. It is two older cubs and when we look back at the rocks below the trees we realize that they are sleeping lions – a male and several females. Everyone is smiling. The cubs go back to sleep.

Before we can get back to the elephants George makes a beeline for the Serena Mara Lodge where we can use the facilities. This accommodation is also situated on high ground with a spectacular 180 view of the plains but without the “awful” road to get to it and, a handy dirt airstrip not two kilometers away. David quickly notes that there is working wi-fi, a swimming pool and a lovely lounge. “But ours is the real thing,” I say, knowing that we could be quite comfortable here!

After a few purchases in the gift shop we are back on the road looking for a picnic place. We would be happy to eat enroute but George has a spot in mind. When we get there it proves to be less than inviting as George spreads a blanket under the large acacia tree, hands us our box lunches, and retreats to the van. No wonder. The matted grass is wet, the ground bumpy, and the flies have found us. David and I quickly down what we deem edible (the potato chips are the best) and join George in the van.

On the way back we run into (almost literally) the herd of elephants. Mothers, babies, and enormous bulls. A couple of silver backed jackals are lurking about as well as some large and small wart hogs that flee the road with their tails straight in the air. Lounging in mud pools, with small birds pecking the ticks of their backs, are several Cape buffalo, a massive animal that appears docile, but is extremely dangerous and unpredictable when disturbed.

Everyone talks about the “Big Five” as the “must see” in terms of animals. Elephant, Cape buffalo, black rhino, lion, and leopard. We ask George why … why not the giraffe, or cheetah, or wildebeest? He explains that these five were (and perhaps still are, though not legally) the most prized hunting trophies. All very dangerous – unlike the sweet giraffes and other grazing ungulates. So, if we are keeping track, we only have yet to see the leopard!

George wants to slip back to the hippo pool for one more look and there we are greeted by a small group (about eight) of giraffes. One saunters by the parked van, peering down at us, so close we could reach out and touch it. (When giraffes walk, they pace – their left front and hind legs move forward as one … then the right side moves – in an almost slow motion movement. However when they run, they have a four-beat gallop just like a horse). The giraffes we are seeing are Masai giraffes, with jagged-edged, vine-leaf shaped spots of a dark chocolate colour on a yellowish to whitish background. With their long eyelashes, tufted horns and fuzzy muzzles it is hard not to fall in love with every one we see.

The rain has held off all day but dark clouds are roiling over the escarpment as we head back up the “awful” road. It is worse than this morning and we decide not to venture down this way again until we have to leave. Just off the mud road, passed the Maasai village, what appears to be a large tabby cat, slips into the shadow of some low bushes. “A cat,” I shriek. George laughs and says, “Kitty cat.” (But I don’t see another “kitty cat” on this whole trip and am convinced when I get home and speak with a cat friend, that what I saw was a Serval cat).

We make it back just in time for dinner, inviting Mathew and Katherine, who are still here, to join us. Both are very well educated – he is a wildlife veterinary and she is an agriculturist. Mathew has travelled to the US and Europe and shares with us some insights on living in Africa. The discussion becomes lively as David probes deeper on subjects as diverse as the many wives of the Maasai men to the future of Africa while Mathew ponders each question and responds carefully, honestly … and we laugh a lot.

We are escorted back to our tent, the water is still hot, and we are tired. We fall asleep to the sound of dogs barking, warding off any predators lurking about, and a few huffs and rumble of a nearby night prowler.